City Astrology: Rio de Janeiro is a Gorgeous, Sexy Pisces

In Brazil they have a saying “Deus é brasileiro” which means “God is Brazilian.”

I thought this standing in the vivid cerulean waves that dance on Ipanema beach. These waves that are completely unbridled as if tied to some eternal samba beat, their rapid movement creating seafoam that glistens in the sun like grains of sugar.

In lieu of a Christmas tree and my mother’s sweet potato pie, I spent this past Christmas on Ipanema beach licking salt and honey off my fingers while feasting on quejio assado, a delightfully salty grilled cheese that you can buy from any of the beach vendors passionately carrying their portable grills brimming with cheese and sausages. It was one of those “pinch me” travel moments for many reasons.

Especially because the two weeks I spent in Rio were completely unplanned. The whole ordeal was quite dramatic and can only be described as fate. The astrology during that time period was aggressively chaotic and much of the cosmic shenanigans were happening in my sign and placements. My Neptune line also runs straight through the city for added mysticism.

After spending three weeks taking Portuguese classes while living with a Brazilian family in the south of Brazil (a dream of mine), I decided to leave the island and go back to Colombia because my heart (and waist) were missing salsa dancing. In the midst of my solo travel odyssey in South America, I had no plan but to let my heart lead me. Of course, Rio was a dream, but it was also entering its busy and more expensive season so I decided I would have to see it some other day.

That day came much sooner than expected. Right before my flight to Colombia was ready to board, I heard my name on the intercom system and went up to the desk oh so naively, ready to show my passport with a smile. Instead, the conversation between me and the gate agent went a little like this (in Portuguese, mind you):

“It seems you are missing some documentation. Do you have the yellow fever vaccine?”

“No… Do I need it,” I asked, feeling confident I could charm my way out of anything.

“Yes, it’s a new law and you won’t be able to travel tonight.”

A very new law put in place by Colombia, requiring anyone entering from Brazil to have the vaccine. I felt myself go hot before feeling myself come out of my body, adrenaline flashing over me like a wave and suddenly granting my ears fluency in Portuguese. I rearranged my words and sentences over and over again making sure I was understanding correctly. The agent waited for it to sink in before letting me know that once I got the vaccine, I’d have to wait at least 10 days to leave the country. He then politely asked me to move to the side so he could begin the boarding process for everyone else, letting me navigate my disbelief.

So there I was at 2 a.m., frantically searching Hostelworld, trying to find a place to lay my head. I found one in the heart of Ipanema and right when I arrived two guests who I’d end up befriending were coming in from a night out and helped me with my luggage up the stairs. One of them, Anna, remarked with a sense of mysticism how interesting it was we arrived at the exact same time.

--------------

It wasn’t until the next evening after speaking with my airline to rearrange my plane ticket and (crying on the phone to my mom) that I felt my body begin to accept the shocking turn of events. I drank a fresh orange, carrot ginger juice at dinner then went grocery shopping and partook in a rare moment of retail therapy - buying a reusable Zona Sul supermarket bag with bikini wearing coconuts that looked like boobies and made me feel ravishingly gay. Walking down the tiled mosaic sidewalks that Rio is famous for, I exhaled aloud:

“Okay, Rio, if you want me to be here, prove yourself to me.”

And that Rio did. Rio de Janeiro is a Pisces (the city’s birthday is celebrated March 1), a natural seductress and charmer. An empath who feels and makes you feel like no other. She is full of secrets and surprises. If she likes you enough, she’ll reveal them to you. Just leave your concept of time and anything concrete behind. Join her in her rhythm, let her put her hands on your waist. Dance with her and she’ll take you away.

If you find yourself drawn to this city, come ready to be fully present in all of your senses. Give your full attention to this city and Rio will return the favor. Rio is a sensual place and everything about it and the carioca culture (carioca refers to people or anything from Rio de Janeiro) are effortlessly sexy. I think of sexy as resting in pleasure and simply what feels good. Sexy is being fully devoted to every moment in mind, body, and soul.

I felt this most during the times I had the pleasure of attending live music events called pagode. Pagode is an Afro-Brazilian subgenre of samba music that is generally performed in communal settings. Often the group performing sits in the center of wherever they are and the crowd surrounds them. One of the places I went to with my lovely hostel friends was in a historic building in downtown Rio.

Standing in line gave me a chance to see some of the most beautiful people I’ve ever seen (you’ll know what I mean if you’ve already been to Brazil or if you visit in the future). Afros and curls, all shades, all smiles, skin glowing, full of life. Before the band came on, the club played American RnB and Afro-Brazilian RnB and I felt at home. One song in particular I instantly fell in love with not even knowing what the lyrics meant at the time.

É a minha de fé, minha preferida

Eu, eu caso com essa mulher e vou parar lá em Maldivas

I shazamed it and would find out it’s a song by singer Ludmilla singing about marrying her now wife and taking her to the Maldives (I later would watch a live performance video with her wife joining her on stage during a performance). The entire crowd sang the song fervently, their energy becoming even more contagious once the band began to play. The band became the heart of the room and the crowd palpitated with every beat singing each lyric with their entire soul. Their hands waving in the air as if they were casting spells. Their torsos moving like water. I was easily swept up and away in this passion moving my feet and hips like I learned in the samba classes I took during the day.

Going outside for some air and the bathroom, I once again looked around taking in the beauty of the night. Something I noticed during my time in Rio is that queerness feels to be beautifully interwoven with mainstream culture unlike many other places where it feels muted unless specfically in a queer gathering. Although the venue wasn’t specifically denoted as being LGBTQ+, our presence was there sparkling like jewels. Inisde, I saw the most gorgeous, gorgeous dolls. In the outside sitting area, a gay presumably male couple stood in the middle of the crowd, making out freely and longingly like there was no one else around. Everyone was free to be their sexy, gorgeous, queer selves, exuding culture, being the culture.

I took it all in. Feeling like I was in a movie which sums up my entire journey in Rio from dramatic start to climatic finish. Rio left me like any lover should. Satisfied and dreaming of the day I see her again.

As they say, we make plans and God laughs. The only thing is I laugh with her. Sim, Deusa é brasileira.